Refinancing means replacing your existing home loan with a new one — usually with a different lender — to get a better rate, better features, or to access equity. It is often worth doing. But a lower interest rate on its own does not mean you come out ahead, and any broker who tells you otherwise is skipping the part that matters.
Why a lower rate is not the whole answer
Four things routinely erase a rate saving:
- Resetting the loan term. This is the big one, and it is almost never mentioned. If you are 8 years into a 30-year loan and refinance to a fresh 30-year term, your repayment drops — partly from the better rate, but mostly because you just added 8 years of interest. Keeping the remaining term is usually the right move.
- Switching costs. Discharge fees from the outgoing lender, government registration fees, and application or valuation fees at the new lender.
- Break costs on a fixed rate. Exiting a fixed loan early can trigger a break fee that is occasionally very large. Always ask your current lender for the figure in writing before doing anything else.
- Losing LMI already paid. If you paid LMI and are still above 80% LVR, a new lender will charge it again. It is not transferable.
The number that actually matters is total cost over the time you expect to hold the loan, not the headline rate and not the monthly repayment.
When refinancing usually does make sense
- Your rate has drifted. Lenders price new customers more sharply than existing ones. If your loan is a few years old and you have never renegotiated, there is often a real gap.
- Your fixed term is ending. The revert rate is rarely competitive. This is the single best-timed moment to review, and it is worth starting 6–8 weeks out.
- Your equity has grown. Crossing below 80% LVR — through repayments or a rise in value — unlocks better pricing and removes LMI from the equation.
- You need features you do not have. An offset account, redraw, or splitting fixed and variable.
- Consolidating expensive debt. Powerful, and the most dangerous option on this list — see below.
- Accessing equity for renovation, an investment deposit, or business purposes.
Debt consolidation: the honest version
Rolling credit cards and personal loans into your mortgage cuts the interest rate on that debt dramatically and usually reduces total monthly outgoings. That part is real.
The trap is the term. A $30,000 credit card debt paid off over 5 years costs far less in total interest than the same $30,000 spread across 25 years at a mortgage rate, even though the rate is a third as high. Lower repayment, higher lifetime cost. You have also converted unsecured debt into debt secured against your home.
Consolidation makes sense when it comes with a plan to pay the consolidated portion down faster than the mortgage term — and when the behaviour that created the debt has changed. Done as a reset without either, it is a treadmill.
What lenders check when you refinance
A refinance is a full application, not a transfer. Expect assessment of:
- Servicing at today’s rules. This surprises people: a loan you were approved for years ago may not be approvable now, because assessment rates and expense benchmarks have changed. This is why some borrowers find themselves unable to move — the “mortgage prison” problem. Some lenders have streamlined assessment for like-for-like refinances; it is worth asking.
- The property valuation. This determines your LVR and therefore your pricing. It can come in below expectations.
- Repayment history. Usually the last 6–12 months on the existing loan, clean.
- Credit file. Recent applications, defaults and arrears.
- Income — assessed the same way as a new purchase.
Before you switch, try this
Call your current lender and ask their retention team to match what you have been offered elsewhere. It costs one phone call, and it works often enough to be worth doing first. If they match, you have saved yourself the paperwork; if they do not, you have a concrete number to compare against.
We will tell you when staying put is the better outcome. It happens, and saying so is the job.
Common questions
How much does refinancing cost?
Typically a discharge fee from your current lender plus government registration fees, and sometimes application or valuation fees at the new lender. Many lenders waive or rebate some of these to win the business. Fixed-rate break costs are separate and can dwarf everything else.
How long does it take?
Commonly three to six weeks, driven mainly by how quickly the outgoing lender processes the discharge and how fast the valuation clears.
Will refinancing hurt my credit score?
Each application creates an enquiry, and several in a short window look poor. One well-targeted application has a minor, temporary effect.
Can I refinance if my income has changed?
Possibly. If you have become self-employed, gone part-time, or taken parental leave, assessment changes but options usually remain — see self-employed home loans. Get advice before applying rather than after a decline.
Can I refinance with a default on my file?
Sometimes. Specialist lenders assess credit history differently from major banks, generally at a higher rate. It can be a bridge back to mainstream pricing later rather than a permanent position.
Should I fix my rate?
It depends on what you need, not on predicting rates — nobody does that reliably. Fixing buys certainty and costs flexibility: fixed loans usually limit extra repayments and rarely offer a full offset, and breaking early can be expensive. Splitting part fixed and part variable is a common middle path.
Get the real numbers
We will look at your current loan, what is actually available to you now, and what switching would genuinely cost and save — including the case for staying where you are.
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This page is general information only and does not take your objectives, financial situation or needs into account. It is not credit assistance or a credit quote. Lender policies, rates and fees change and vary between products. Nothing here is a guarantee of approval or savings. Easy Loan Finance is a Credit Representative (CRN 568863) of Beagle Finance Pty Ltd, Australian Credit Licence 383640.
